Tips and Tricks
More tips and tricks coming
soon....
How to Reset the
PCM:
-
Disconnect NEG Battery Terminal
-
Turn the ignition key to the START position
and hold for 15-20 seconds
-
Release key (OFF) and reconnect the battery
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When should I reset the
PCM:
If you change items such as the Throttle Body,
Headers, Ignition System (or any internal parts with
aftermarket, performance parts), then you should reset the
PCM. Items such as: Plug Wires, Cap, Rotor, Spark Plugs,
Muffler, and Air Filter (not intake...filter) don't require
this at all. The PCM will gradually relearn as you drive
anyway...that takes about 200 miles for a complete long-term
learn.
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How to Clean the IAC
Solenoid:
This is recommended at every Tune-Up to prevent
excess carbon buildup on the IAC plunger. In some cases,
you'll notice a slightly erratic idle quality. This is
the first step in taking care of that problem. IAC =
Intake Air Control (Solenoid).
-
Remove the Air Hat from the Throttle Body
-
Disconnect the sensor harness from the IAC
Solenoid (Rear of Throttle Body)
-
Remove the two Torx-25 Screws
-
Remove the IAC Solenoid (Be careful not to
lose the rubber O-Ring)
-
Spray some Carb/TB Cleaner in the IAC port on
the Throttle Body and let it sit
-
Spray some Carb/TB Cleaner on the tip of the
IAC Solenoid and wipe clean (Do NOT forcefully twist or push
the plunger - You will damage the Solenoid. Wipe very
gently.)
-
Spray a little bit more Carb/TB Cleaner in the
IAC port on the Throttle Body and wipe clean with a
thin/lint-free rag
-
Reinstall the IAC Solenoid (Make sure you
don't lose the rubber gasket on the solenoid)
-
Reinstall the sensor connector and airhat
-
Start the engine and let idle for about 1
minute.
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How to clean your
Throttle Body:
Most people think that cleaning the throttle
body requires a can of Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner and a quick
"wash" of the bores. This may work, but only washes the
dirt and cleaner down into your intake manifold where it can
puddle up and break down the belly-pan gasket. Then, it
also is pulled into the combustion chamber where is can foul
up the spark plugs.
The proper way to clean your throttle body is to
remove it from the engine (you'll need a small pan, some
compressed air, and a new throttle body gasket for this
procedure):
1. Remove your air hat from the throttle
body
2. Disconnect the sensor connectors (TPS, MAP, and
IAC)
3. Remove the four throttle body bolts
4. Lift the
throttle body up and away from the intake manifold (place a
rag over the manifold opening to prevent anything from falling
inside)
5. Remove the three sensors (Do not drop
them)
6. Remove the three screws for the throttle linkage
(Not required...can be done with linkage attached)
7. Place
the throttle body in a small pan and spray Carb/Throttle Body
Cleaner in the bores, underside passages, and ports. Let
soak for about a minute.
8. Clean the IAC Solenoid - Refer
to "How
to clean the IAC Solenoid"
9. Spray some more
Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner in the bores and ports of the
throttle body
10. Wipe clean with a lint free rag (baby
diaper works well) and blow out all the ports with some
compressed air (a small can from a electronics store works
just fine).
11. Reinstall all sensors, then reinstall on
your vehicle with a new Throttle Body gasket (don't forget to
remove the rag)
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Initial Performance
Recommendations:
Always start with the basics first. Your
engine (no matter who built it) is an air pump (plain and
simple). The more efficiently you get the air in and the
more efficiently you get it out, the more power you'll
make. Simple Intake and Exhaust modifications are always
the least expensive route and can even increase your fuel
economy. Not to get into the technical details, here's a
simple list to follow:
-
Install a Cold Air Kit (K&N, Intense
Performance, PaceSetter, etc.)
-
Install a Performance Muffler (Flowmaster,
Dynomax, and Gibson are just three of many out there)
-
Install a 180 Degree Thermostat (Keeping the
engine slightly cooler makes more power. The factory
195+ T'Stats are mainly for emissions purposes)
-
A good set of Spark Plug wires, Brass Contact
Cap and Rotor, and a quality set of plugs will always help
out your ignition system (DIS, or "Distributor-Less"
ignition systems not included in this recommendation)
-
Run a quality fuel. Chevron or Exxon are
good choices...just stay away from the "Mom and Pop"
stations. Putting old or dirty fuel in your tank won't
help your engine. Also, try to stay away from your
favorite gas station when they're filling up the
tanks. Any sediment on the bottom of the tank will be
mixed in with the new fuel and may get into your
tank.
Those are just the basics. There are many
options on ignition systems, throttle bodies, headers, etc.,
but it all comes down to "What goes in, must come out".
Take care of that department first and you're on your way to
making more power.
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Oil
Recommendations:
There's a lot of "Hocus Pocus" on who's oil is
better and Synthetic vs. "Dino" Oil. We've run Redline,
Amsoil, Mobil-1, Castrol, Valvoline, and a few others just to
see what would happen. What ultimately happened was that
we were a few dollars shorter in our pocket book. If you
change your oil at the recommended intervals (normally
3500-5000 miles), a good Non-Synthetic oil won't hurt your
engine one bit (unless it's low-grade "El-Cheapo" oil).
If you want those last few HP out of your engine or race your
vehicle every weekend, switch over to Synthetic Oil. It
will last slightly longer in your engine but does cost more
than regular oil. Which do we recommend? We're not going
to recommend any since it causes problems between vendors and
personal preferences.
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Spark Plug
Recommendations:
While the factory and factory replacement spark
plugs work, the Magnum engines have shown slightly better
performance with the Autolite 3923 Spark Plugs. The
Autolite 3923's are a standard tip spark plug that is one heat
range colder than stock, as compared to the extended "Special
Power Tip" plugs that the engine came with. Why the
difference? A standard tip plug is less susceptible to
detonation, is a good replacement for modified Magnum engines,
and work very well with modified engines as well...especially
when using Nitrous or a Supercharger. In some cases, the
Autolite 3923's also showed a 4-5HP difference at the
rear wheels on the Dyno. (The test was performed with
new OEM Spark plugs vs. the Autolite 3923's. No changes
to the engine and the plugs were tested on the same day under
the same conditions.)
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O2 Sensor Replacement:
The O2 sensor(s) on your vehicle are designed to
sense Oxygen in the exhaust stream. When they sense too
much "air", they richen up the mixture and when the don't
sense enough "air", they lean out the fuel mixture.
Under normal conditions, they should last you 60-80K
miles. However, we all drive in varying traffic
conditions so the life of the O2 sensor is diminished.
We recommend that you change the O2 sensor(s) every 60K miles
to keep your engine running in optimal condition. (This
includes the regular service intervals and tune-up
schedules.)
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Which exhaust system is
better:
Many people have debated this and a lot of it
has to do with loyalty to a company label. We have
personally run Dynomax, MagnaFlow, Flowmaster, Ravin, JBA
mufflers and exhaust systems, and found that the single exit
systems were slightly better than the dual exit systems...on
the Dyno and at the track. The reason for this is that
on a single exit system, the exhaust pulses don't fight each
other on the exit.
They all sounded good, all performed much better
than stock, and all had a slightly different price tag on
them. Which one should you use? The one that
sounds and looks the best to you. We all have different
tastes when it comes to our idea of what sound good so base
your opinion on the sound quality...not the advertised flow
ratings or who sponsors what race.
A brief note on the advertised flow ratings of
mufflers: Mufflers are rated on a Flow bench. This
uses a regulated flow rather than the random pulses found in
the exhaust stream which doesn't say anything in regards to
the performance quality on street driven (or weekend racer)
vehicles. So why buy a 1000+CFM muffler that you can see
through rather than the chambered style? If you want to
spend the money, like the sound, and own a race car (Bracket,
Drag, etc.)...by all means, go for it. Just remember,
just because you can see through it doesn't mean its any
better than a chambered.
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Ignition Systems
(MSD):
Most people choose the MSD Ignition Systems as
their "High Performance" ignition system. There's
nothing wrong with them and the only reason we don't provide
the MSD systems on this site is that MSD doesn't seem to want
to work with the smaller shops on pricing. If you do
decide to run with the MSD system, make sure that you get the
following parts with your order:
-
MSD Tach Adapter Harness - P/N# 8910. It
prevents Code-43 from tripping in the PCM. "Diagnostic
Trouble Code P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit
Malfunction, Peak Primary circuit current not achieved with
maximum dwell time."
-
MSD Universal Harness - P/N# 8873. It
minimizes the excessive cutting of the factory wiring
harness.
You can download the MSD 8910 Instructions
here: MSD
8910 Tach Adapter (Adobe PDF Format)
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Ignition Systems
(Accel):
The Accel 300+ System is a complete "Plug and
Play" system but does require a few pieces if you only choose
to run with the Accel Coil that's designed as a factory
replacement fit (#140021). You'll need to pick up the
adapter harness for the '98 and newer Dakota/Durango/Ram
Trucks. The part number is: 140021AH. This coil
and adapter is included in the Accel 300+ Digital Ignition
System Kit for the Dodge trucks.
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"Budget Modifications"
for your V6/V8:
- Build yourself a "Home-Brew" 3" Intake system from Black
Plastic tubing found at Home Depot and grab a Fernco rubber
coupling (to attach to your airhat) - $10 approximately
- Add a 6x9" K&N Cone Filter - $35 approximately
- Remove the rubber flap on the passenger-side/radiator
support (adds cold air to the intake) - FREE
- 180 Degree Robert Shaw High-Flow Thermostat - $9
approximately
- Relocate IAT Sensor into the intake tube - FREE
- DynoMax Super-Turbo - Single 2.5" IN/OUT (Replaces
factory muffler) - $65 Installed approximately
Total cost of the modifications listed is around
$150-$160. You can also add a V6 to V8 Throttle Body
conversion kit to your V6 for an extra $210 + Shipping...we
carry it in stock.
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Poor idle with big cam
(112 degrees or less on Lobe Separation)
If you install a larger cam that has a Lobe
Separation of less than 112 degrees, you will notice a very
poor idle (sometimes dies at the light) and running too rich
at idle as well. This is caused by the MAP signal being
too low due to the cam. The MAP vacuum at idle (with a
stock cam) is 12-13" at the MAP port on the throttle
body. With a larger cam, that has a 108-110 degree Lobe
Separation, the vacuum at the MAP port is 6-8". This is
too low and will cause poor idle qualities.
Plug the MAP port on the throttle body and
relocate the MAP line to manifold vacuum (should be about
12-13" at idle). This will simulate the factory signal
and your idle quality will be back to normal. There is
no adverse affect on the cruise or WOT performance with this
modification.
Recommendation: Select a Cam with 112-114
degrees Lobe Separation. They are MAP friendly.
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4.7L Throttle Body
Swap:
For those who don't know, the 4.7L comes with
two flavors of throttle bodies. The '99-'00 models use a
65mm and the '01 models use a 68mm throttle body. You
can easily swap out the later model 68mm throttle body for
your performance-limiting 65mm without any problems. You
can tell which one you have by looking at the stamped number
on the throttle plate. "65" = 65mm / "68" = 68mm
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Throttle Body Spacers
(Primarily the "Helix" style):
These spacers do not provide any gains in HP at
all. They claim to increase TQ and MPG but we tested one
and it gained nothing. The Dyno showed no gains in HP or
TQ. We also had contacted one of the manufacturers for
their comments on them and here's the direct quote (from
email):
--------------------------------------------
From: AirAid Info
Subject: Re: AIRAID.COM
Contact Form
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 09:20:36
-0700
Dear Sir, thank you for your inquiry in our
products. The spacer makes no HP on the Dyno. It makes all of
it's power in torque in the low end. If you haven't noticed
any power on the Dyno or the track then it's doing what it's
supposed to. You would not see any gains down the 1/4 mile or
increases on the Dyno. The idea of the spacer is to improve
overall drivability and fuel mileage. In most cases when
people install a bolt on part they expect better mileage and
power, what happens is they are into the throttle a lot more
than before trying to test performance and that's when the
decrease in mileage happens.
Sincerely,
<Airaid
Technician>
-------------------------------------------
Points to look at:
- "The spacer makes no HP on the Dyno. It makes all
of it's power in torque in the low end."
- "If you haven't noticed any power on the Dyno or
the track then it's doing what it's supposed to."
- "The idea of the spacer is to improve overall
drivability and fuel mileage."
So...it doesn't make any more HP, is not
supposed to help in 1/4 mile performance (or on the Dyno), and
is mainly for mileage and bottom end Torque. Well, Dyno's show
TQ figures and there were no changes, mileage stayed the same,
and 1/4 mile performance wasn't affected on the several others
who have tried it (including us). They also are still
not able to explain how the spacer keeps the swirl effect
through the two turns (90 degree and 45 degree) in the intake
plenum of the Dodge Ram/Dakota/Durango manifolds.
While the Throttle Body Spacer showed no gains
on the 3.9/5.2/5.9L Magnum engines, the 4.7L engines have been
reported to show noticeable gains from the spacer.
Why? It's a much more efficient intake system with less
restrictions than the Magnum engines. It may work just
fine for the 4.7L crowd but we'll look into this at a later
date for Dyno and long term MPG testing.
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Which Thermostat
temperature should I use:
The Magnum engines respond very well to a 180
degree thermostat. The factory thermostat is a 195
degree which is great for emissions but not so great for
performance. Changing it out to a 180 degree model will
keep the engine slightly cooler which will help make more
power. Please be aware that just swapping the
thermostat, without any other modifications, won't gain you a
whole lot of extra power. All modifications work
together and most will complement each other.
Example: 180 T'Stat used with a Cold Air Kit, Headers,
and a good Cat-Back system. The 180 degree thermostats
will not affect your emissions output either.
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What Gap to set your
Sparkplugs at:
This is a common question with an easy
answer. Whatever the factory recommends for the stock
ignition system on your vehicle.
If you are running an aftermarket coil and/or
ignition system (MSD, Accel, etc,), normally you can open the
gap up by .005" - .010" more than factory
specifications. However, with Supercharging or Nitrous
applications, you would want to reduce the gap about .005" due
to the higher cylinder pressures that occur with both
Superchargers and Nitrous. If you plan on using the
Autolite 3923 sparkplugs in your Magnum engine, stick with the
same guidelines.
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Open and Closed Loop
Operation:
There are 7 different modes (conditions) that
are used (besides Key-ON and Key-Off mode). Here is a
table of what sensors are monitored and what determines the
mode. One thing to remember, under OPEN LOOP Operation,
the O2 Sensor(s) are ignored by the PCM.
Engine Start-Up Mode (OPEN
LOOP)
Battery Voltage
Coolant
Temp
Crank Position
Intake Air Temp
(IAT)
MAP
TPS
Starter Motor
Relay
Cam Position |
Engine Warm-Up Mode (OPEN
LOOP)
Battery Voltage
Coolant
Temp
Crank Position
Intake Air Temp
(IAT)
MAP
TPS
Cam
Position
Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Automatics
Only)
|
Idle mode (Once at Operating Temp:
CLOSED LOOP)
A/C Select (if
equipped)
A/C Request (if
equipped)
Battery Voltage
Coolant
Temp
Crank Position
Intake Air Temp
(IAT)
MAP
TPS
Cam
Position
O2 Sensors
Park/Neutral
Safety Switch (Automatics Only) |
Cruise Mode (CLOSED
LOOP)
A/C Select (if equipped)
A/C
Request (if equipped)
Battery
Voltage
Coolant Temp
Crank
Position
Intake Air Temp
(IAT)
MAP
TPS
Cam
Position
O2 Sensors
Park/Neutral
Safety Switch (Automatics Only) |
Acceleration Mode (OPEN
LOOP)
A/C Select (if equipped)
A/C
Request (if equipped)
Battery
Voltage
Coolant Temp
Crank
Position
Intake Air Temp
(IAT)
MAP
TPS
Cam
Position
Vehicle Speed
Sensor
Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Automatics
Only) |
Deceleration Mode (OPEN
LOOP)
A/C Select (if equipped)
A/C
Request (if equipped)
Battery
Voltage
Coolant Temp
Crank
Position
Intake Air Temp
(IAT)
MAP
TPS
Cam
Position
Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Automatics
Only)
Vehicle Speed Sensor |
Wide Open Throttle - WOT (OPEN
LOOP)
Battery Voltage
Coolant
Temp
Crank Position
Intake Air Temp
(IAT)
MAP
TPS
Cam Position |
|
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Emissions
Warranty for 1995 and Newer Vehicles:
EPA Website: EPA
Environmental Fact Sheet
Will aftermarket parts
void my warranty:
This is a common question with an easy
answer: NO.
Federal law sets forth requirements for
warranties and contains a number of provisions to prevent
vehicle manufacturers, dealers and others from unjustly
denying warranty coverage. With regard to aftermarket parts,
the gist of the law is that warranty coverage cannot be denied
simply because such parts are present on the vehicle, or have
been used. The warranty coverage can be denied
only if the aftermarket part caused the malfunction or damage
for which warranty coverage is sought. Disputes in
this area usually boil down to arguments over facts and
technical opinions, rather than arguments over interpretations
of the law.
You can read more about this at: http://www.sema.org/warranty
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TV Cable Adjustments
(V6/V8 Magnum Engines)
GENERAL INFORMATION
The transmission
throttle valve is operated by the valve body throttle lever.
The throttle lever is actuated by a cable connected to the
engine throttle body lever. A lock button at the engine end of
the cable provides for cable adjustment.
A correctly
adjusted throttle valve cable, will cause the throttle lever
on the transmission to move simultaneously with the throttle
body lever from the idle position. Proper adjustment allows
simultaneous movement without causing the transmission
throttle lever to move ahead of, or lag behind the throttle
body lever.
CHECK
- Turn ignition key to OFF position.
- Remove air cleaner.
- Verify that throttle body lever is at curb idle
position. Then verify that transmission throttle lever is
also at idle (full forward) position.
- Slide cable off attachment stud on throttle body lever.
- Compare position of cable end to attachment stud on
throttle body lever:
- Cable end and attachment stud should be aligned (or
centered on one another) to within 1 mm (0.039
inch) in either direction.
- If cable end and attachment stud are misaligned (off
center), cable will have to be adjusted as described in
following procedure.
- Reconnect cable end to attachment stud. Then with aid of
a helper, observe movement of transmission throttle lever
and lever on throttle body.
- If both levers move simultaneously from idle to
half-throttle and back to idle position, adjustment is
correct.
- If transmission throttle lever moves ahead of, or lags
behind throttle body lever, cable adjustment will be
necessary. Or, if throttle body lever prevents
transmission lever from returning to closed position,
cable adjustment will be necessary.
PROCEDURE
- Turn ignition switch to OFF position and shift into
Park.
- Remove air cleaner.
- Disconnect cable end from attachment stud on throttle
body.
- Verify that transmission throttle lever is in idle (full
forward) position. Then be sure lever on throttle body is at
curb idle position.
- Insert a small screwdriver under edge of retaining clip
and remove retaining clip.
- Center cable end on attachment stud to within 1 mm
(0.039 inch) and release cable button.
- Install retaining clip onto cable: housing.
- Check cable adjustment. Be sure transmission throttle
lever and lever on throttle body move simultaneously and as
described in cable adjustment checking procedure.
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Alternative
connections for your A/F Meter:
Most people will drill a hole in their floor
board to install the wire from their Air/Fuel Meter to the O2
sensor (in front of the Catalytic Converter). First of
all, you don't need to drill any holes at all. Second,
you can use the wire harness at the PCM instead for a cleaner
installation. On the '97 - '99 Dodge Dakota models, it's
the 18ga. Orange w/Tan stripe wire. This is for the
forward O2 signal to the PCM. Just carefully strip away
a small section of the insulation from the OR/Tan wire and,
preferably, solder the A/F Meter signal wire to it.
Then, put a small dap of silicone over the solder joint and
tape it back up with your favorite electrical tape.
However, the best way still is to connect an Air
Fuel meter is with it's own O2 sensor.
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Crower Rocker Arm
Installation:
- Disconnect coil wire. Remove air cleaner and inlet hose.
Clear a path to remove the valve covers
- Remove spark plug wires and valve cover hold down bolts.
- Remove valve covers. Clean them and set them aside.
- Remove stock rockers, leaving pushrods in place. Don’t
let pushrods drop down into engine.
- Install Crower studs (#88416 for V6, V8, V10 Magnum /
#88417 for V10 Viper).
- Torque studs to 20-24 ft lbs for #88416 or 30-38 ft lbs
for #88417.
- Install Crower rockers arms and sure-lock nuts. Make
sure that the pushrods are still seated in the tappets. DO
NOT TIGHTEN DOWN NUTS.
- Turn engine over (may require another person) so that
cylinder you’re adjusting has both the intake and the
exhaust lifters on base circle of cam (rocker arms should be
level to each other.
- Adjust sure-locks down until clearance at pushrod is
zero, then crank down sure-lock a 1/2 to 3/4 turn.
- Lock down Allen-head screw into sure-lock nut.
- Repeat steps rocker adjustment on each cylinder
individually.
- When all cylinders are adjusted, pre-lube the rockers
with engine oil.
- Reinstall valve covers and valve cover bolts.
- Disable distributor and turn engine over to pump up
hydraulic lifters. Enable distributor.
- Start engine and let idle at normal speed.
Note: Initial fire-up may produce tappet noise
for a short period of time until lifters have a chance to
adjust themselves. If tappet noise continues for more than 30
seconds, shut engine off for about 2 minutes. Start engine
again and let idle. Tappet noise should be going away or be
gone. Caution: If after 3 or 4 starts and stops (with 2 minute
intervals in between) the tappet noise is still there, repeat
the rocker arm adjustment steps.
Test drive vehicle, keeping the engine below
4500 rpm for the first 50 miles to allow proper rocker
break-in and allow the vehicle’s computer to adjust to the new
modifications.
V10 Magnum: Must remove upper half of intake
manifold. Requires new upper plenum gasket (#530006838). If
you have any questions regarding installation, do not hesitate
to call Crower’s Tech Line at 619-422-1191.
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What Flowmaster is
best for my V6:
You have several options on the V6 from
Flowmaster for custom exhaust systems:
Flowmaster 50-Series SUV: 525552 (2.5" IN/Dual
2.25"OUT)
Flowmaster 50-Series SUV: 52555 (Single 2.5"
IN/OUT)
Flowmaster 50-Series Performance: 425502 (2.5"
IN/Dual 2.0" OUT)
Flowmaster 40-Series Performance: 42540
(Single 2.5" IN/OUT)
Flowmaster "Delta-Force" Series:
425509 (Single 2.5" IN/OUT)
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Spreadsheets for
your PC or PDA:
These three spreadsheets are in Excel format but
are small enough to fit on your PDA. We really like the
TinySheet
utility from Iambic Software and highly recommend it for Palm
users.
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How to bleed the Brake
System (Base Instructions):
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards only. Use fresh,
clean fluid from a sealed container at all times.
Do
not pump the brake pedal at any time while bleeding. Air in
the system will be compressed into small bubbles that are
distributed throughout the hydraulic system. This will make
additional bleeding operations necessary.
Do not allow
the master cylinder to run out of fluid during bleed
operations. An empty cylinder will allow additional air to be
drawn into the system. Check the cylinder fluid level
frequently and add fluid as needed.
Bleed only one
brake component at a time in the following sequence:
- Master Cylinder
- Combination Valve
- Rear Antilock Valve
- Right Rear Wheel
- Left Rear Wheel
- Right Front Wheel
- Left Front Wheel
MANUAL BLEEDING
- Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
- If calipers or wheel cylinders were overhauled, open all
caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws. Then close each
bleed screw as fluid starts to drip from it. Top off master
cylinder reservoir once more before proceeding.
- Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw and insert
opposite end in glass container partially filled with brake
fluid. Be sure end of bleed hose is immersed in fluid.
- Open up bleeder and then have a helper press down the
brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close the bleeder.
Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is clear and free of
bubbles. Then move to the next wheel.
PRESSURE BLEEDING
Follow the
manufacturer’s instructions carefully when using pressure
equipment. Do not exceed the tank manufacturer’s pressure
recommendations. Generally, a tank pressure of 15-20 PSI is
sufficient for bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with
recommended fluid and purge air from the tank lines before
bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master
cylinder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leakage, or
drawing air back into the system. Use adapter provided with
the equipment or Adapter 6921.
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I want to run Nitrous on
my V6/V8:
You can run a basic Nitrous system (NX preferred
for the Mopar Magnums) without any modifications but the
recommended modifications will provide you with not only
better all around performance, but also improved performance
with the Nitrous.
- Cold Air Intake System (K&N Gen-II or Intense
Performance)
- Modified Throttle Body (48mm Flometrics or Fastman V6 -
50-52mm for V8)
- Headers (JBA/Mopar)
- A good flowing cat-back system (Gibson, Flowmaster,
Dynomax, etc.)
- 180 Degree thermostat
- One heat range colder spark plug (Autolite 3923 - Gapped
at no more than .038" for Nitrous. Can use Autolite
3922's as well)
- A good ignition system (at least replace the factory
coil but MSD preferred - You WILL need a timing retard
system for the 100HP or higher shot on a V6. The V8's
can run higher levels...but this is as a safety
recommendation.)
Those are the modifications that will not only
pep up your stock V6/V8, but will also help the Nitrous work
much more efficiently. Adding Nitrous to a stock intake,
exhaust is not going to give you the full
effect/performance...but it will "work".
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Can I Adjust my
Ignition Timing
Simple answer...NO. The base (initial)
ignition timing is NOT adjustable. Do not attempt to adjust
ignition timing by rotating the distributor. All ignition
timing functions are controlled by the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM).
A DRB-III or equivalent scan tool may be used to
verify base timing and electronic timing advance. Refer to the
Scan Tool instructions for procedure. Fuel synchronization can
be verified and set by rotating the distributor. Refer to the
Distributor Removal/Installation/Checking Distributor
Position.
Some people have modified their crank position
sensors to allow for minor timing adjustments...this is NOT an
easy modification and requires a scanner to get the timing set
properly. We do NOT recommend this at all.
Top
Distributor
Indexing
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Vehicles may exhibit surging, light bucking, or
intermittent engine misfiring. This will most likely occur
when the vehicle is at operating temperature, and under a
light load at approximately 2000 RPM. This condition may be
caused by a mis-indexed distributor. The following procedure
is an alternative to the indexing procedure outlined in the
service manual.
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This procedure outlines an alternative
distributor indexing procedure.
Connect a voltmeter to the distributor sensor
connector by removing the end seal and carefully back probing
the connector. Connect the positive lead to the sensor output
pin (pin 3, either a tan wire with a yellow tracer or a gray
wire, depending on vehicle application). Connect the negative
lead to the sensor ground pin (pin 2, a black wire with a
light blue tracer).
Rotate the engine clockwise as viewed from the
front, until the number one piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC)
of the compression stroke. The timing mark on the vibration
damper should line up with the zero degree
(TDC) mark on the timing chain case cover.
Continue to rotate the engine slowly clockwise
until the V6 or V8 mark (depending on engine type) lines up
with the zero degree (TDC) mark on the timing chain case
cover. The V8 mark is 17.5°after TDC and the V6 mark is
147°after TDC. NOTE: DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE COUNTER
CLOCKWISE. IF THE ENGINE IS ROTATED BEYOND THE MARK, RETURN TO
STEP 2 AND REPEAT THE PROCEDURE.
Loosen the distributor clamp bolt.
With the ignition switch in the ON position,
rotate the distributor slightly in either direction until the
voltmeter switches between the sensor transition point of 0
and 5 volts.
Adjust the distributor as close as possible to
either side of this transition point and tighten the
distributor clamp bolt to 19-26 N-m (170-230 in.lbs.) .
Top
Electrical - Multiple
Systems Inoperative
NO: 08-10-98
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: Mar.
13, 1998
SUBJECT:
G202 Ground Diagnosis
MODELS:
1997-1998 (AN) Dakota
1998 (DN)
Durango
DISCUSSION:
Inspect the G202 ground connection when multiple
electrical complaints are encountered, such as the
following:
Blower Motor Inoperative
Power Door Locks
Inoperative
Dome Light Inoperative
Chime
Inoperative
Keyless Entry Inoperative
Cigar Lighter
Inoperative
Power Outlet Inoperative
Console Lights
Inoperative
Radio Inoperative
Overhead Console
Inoperative
Instrument Cluster Gauges Inoperative
The G202 ground connection uses the same bolt
that secures the right and left lower instrument panel to the
side cowl panel (Figure 1). After verifying that the mating
surfaces of the ground connections are good, re-torque both
right and left lower instrument panel bolts to 28 N.m (250 in.
lbs.).
Top
How to check codes on a
1999 Dodge
The 1999 Dodge Dakota shop manual, page 8E-6 has
the following self diagnostic test that checks the instrument
cluster and CCD data bus message-controlled indicator lamps,
for the other codes a DRB scan tool is required.
NOTE: If the ignition switch is turned
to the off position during this test, or if a Vehicle speed
message indicating the vehicle is moving is received from the
PCM on the CCD data bus during the test, repeat test if
required.
This is one continuous test
1.
Ignition switch off
2. Press and hold the trip reset
knob
3. Turn the ignition switch to on but do not
start.
4. Hold the reset knob for approx 10 seconds or
until the word CHEC appears in the display then release.
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FAILURE
MESSAGE
| MESSAGE |
DESCRIPTION |
CORRECTION |
| 110 |
A failure has been identified in the
cluster CPU, RAM, or EEPROM. |
Replace the faulty cluster |
| 900 |
The CCD data bus is not operational.
|
1. Check the CCD data bus connection at
the cluster.
2. Check the cluster fuses.
3. Check
the CCD data bus.
4. Check the CCD data bus
voltage.
5. Check the CCD data bus terminations.
|
| 920 |
The cluster is not receiving a vehicle
message from the PCM. |
1. Check the PCM software level and
re-flash if required.
2. Use a DRB scan tool to
verify that the vehicle speed message is being sent by
the PCM. |
| 921 |
The cluster is not receiving a distance
pulse message from the PCM. |
1. Check the PCM software level and
re-flash if required.
2. Use a DRB scan tool to
verify that the distance pulse message is being sent by
the PCM. |
| 940 |
The cluster is not receiving an airbag
message from the ACM |
1. Check the CCD data bus connections at
the ACM.
2. Check the ACM fuse. |
| 950 |
The cluster is not receiving an ABS
lamp-on message from the CAB. |
1.Check the CCD data bus connections at
the CAB
2. Check the CAB fuse. |
| 999 |
An error has been discovered. |
1. Record the failure message.
2.
Depress the trip odometer reset button to continue the
self diagnostic test. |
If no fault codes appear the instrument cluster
will begin a walking segment and gauge test.
Walking segment and gauge test
This test requires a visual inspection of each
odometer segment as it is displayed to determine a pass or
fail condition.
1. All segments will be illuminated at
once.
2. Then each individual segment of the odometer
display will be illuminated in sequence.
3. If any
segment fails to illuminate, repeat test to confirm the
failure.
4. If failure is confirmed replace the
faulty instrument cluster.
The instrument cluster will perform a bulb check
of each indicator lamp that the instrument cluster
controls.
1. If a
individual amber indicator lamp does not illuminate the
instrument cluster should be removed, however check that bulb
is not faulty and bulb holder is properly installed on the
circuit board before considering replacing instrument cluster.
If bulb and holder are ok replace faulty instrument
cluster.
2. Each of the
red indicators are illuminated by a LED. If a LED fails
to illuminate the Instrument cluster must be replaced.
The instrument cluster will perform a gauge
actuator test. In this test the instrument cluster circuitry
positions each of the gauge needles at three different
calibration points, then returns them to their relaxed
position.
1. If an
individual gauge does respond properly or at all remove the
instrument cluster and check the gauge terminal pins are
properly inserted through the spring clip terminal pin
receptacles on the instrument
cluster.
2. If the
gauge terminal connections are ok replace the faulty
cluster.
This ends the Self Diagnostic test. The
instrument cluster will automatically exit the test and return
to normal operation.
(Procedure brought to our attention by Doug)
Top
Spark Plug Wire Reroute
- TSB (1997-1999 V6/V8 Models)
Dodge Magnum Engine - 3.9L
Plug Wire Reroute (MSWord)
Dodge Magnum Engine - 5.2/5.9L
Plug Wire Reroute (MSWord)
Top
Mopar Performance PCM
Matrix
Excel
Format
HTML
Format
Top
I've got Four (4) O2
Sensors...What do they do?
OXYGEN SENSOR-PCM INPUTS
When the
vehicle is equipped with a this engine and two-wheel-drive
(2WD), four heated O2S sensors Will be used. They are: Left,
right, pre-catalyst and post catalyst. The left, right and
post catalyst sensors will fine-tune air-fuel ratio. The
pre-catalyst and post catalyst sensors will determine
catalytic converter efficiency.
Two of these sensors
are installed into the left and right exhaust manifold down
pipes. The left O2S sensor will monitor cylinders 1, 3, 5 and
7. The right sensor will monitor cylinders 2, 4, 6 and
8.
The sensors produce voltages from 0 to 1 volt ,
depending upon the oxygen content of the exhaust gas in the
exhaust manifold. When a large amount of oxygen is present
(caused by a lean air/fuel mixture), the sensors produces a
low voltage. When there is a lesser amount present (rich
air/fuel mixture) it produces a higher voltage. By monitoring
the oxygen content and converting it to electrical voltage,
the sensors act as a rich-lean switch.
The oxygen
sensors are equipped with a heating element that keeps the
sensors at proper operating temperature during all operating
modes. Maintaining correct sensor temperature at all times
allows the system to enter into closed loop operation sooner.
Also, it allows the system to remain in closed loop operation
during periods of extended idle.
In Closed Loop operation,
the PCM monitors the O2S sensor input (along with other
inputs) and adjusts the injector pulse width accordingly.
During Open Loop operation, the PCM ignores the O2 sensor
input. The PCM adjusts injector pulse width based on
preprogrammed (fixed) values and inputs from other
sensors.
The Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay supplies
battery voltage to both oxygen sensors. The oxygen sensors are
equipped with a heating elements. The heating elements reduce
the time required for the sensors to reach operating
temperature.
|
PRE-CATALYST OXYGEN SENSOR
The
pre-catalyst O2S sensor is located in the inlet end of
the catalytic converter. It provides an input voltage to
the PCM. By comparing the input from the pre-catalyst
O2S sensor, with the input from the post catalyst oxygen
sensor, the PCM calculates catalytic converter
efficiency. |
|
POST CATALYST OXYGEN SENSOR
The post
catalyst heated oxygen sensor threads into the outlet
end of the catalytic converter. The post catalyst heated
oxygen sensor input is used to detect catalytic
converter deterioration and fine tune the air fuel
ratio. As the converter deteriorates, the input from
this sensor begins to match the pre-catalyst sensor
input except for a slight time delay. By comparing the
inputs from both of these sensors, the PCM calculates
catalytic converter
efficiency. |
When the catalytic converter efficiency drops
below emission standards, the PCM stores a diagnostic trouble
code and illuminates the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Top
Supercharged V6 Tuning
Tips:
(1) Use a V8 Throttle Body, Flometrics 48mm
(50mm if running 9# boost), or Fastman modified throttle body
(preferably with V8 cable as well for ease of
installation)
(2) 3923 Spark Plugs
(3) A good ignition
coil
(4) 180 Degree T'Stat
(5) Boost Bypass Valve (not
the MAP/Boost Bypass Valve) REQUIRED for anything at 9# or
above (also helps with 6# but not really required)
(6)
Headers (recommended but not required unless you plan on
higher boost levels - 9# really wakes up the V6 and they don't
blow head gaskets like the 5.2/5.9's)
(7) Get rid of the
Powerdyne Filter...it only flows 339CFM and the blower flows
850CFM @ 6#. The S&B Filters (or K&N) 6"x9" Cones fit
perfectly but you will have to build a small bracket to hold
the filter steady (this goes for the V8 folks as
well...Powerdyne has been made aware of this it's with R&D
right now.)
The SuperChips ICON allows you to custom program
your timing curve in 400rpm increments (+/- 20 degrees at each
increment starting at 1600rpm and up to 7000rpm). We're not
running BTM at all on our V6 Truck...just the MSD Digital-6+
(Rev limiter set at 5500rpm) and the SuperChips box...and we
just installed a custom built Billet Pulley from Worldwide
Performance Parts (11#) for testing...no pinging with Super
Unleaded and a bottle of ProBlend "Nitro Power". (We set the
timing curve right at the detonation point, back it off .5
degrees across the board, and add a bottle of ProBlend. Runs
VERY well and is real "peppy" across the board.
If you're running an IAT Adjuster, set it at
70-60 degrees but no colder on the S/C'd V6. The FMU
compensates for the boost and the factory injectors will keep
up with the added fuel from the FMU. At 9# or higher, you'll
need to swap out to the FMS 24#...and they don't run rich at
idle on the V6's at all.
Top
I want more boost out of
my Powerdyne Supercharger:
(1) Replace the inefficient air filter that
comes with the kit (It only flow 339CFM according to K&N -
The Powerdyne puts out 850CFM @ 6# Boost)
(2) ATI, Paxton,
K&N, and a few other companies make aftermarket air hats
for the 5 1/8" opening of the Dodge Throttle Body. These
are all metal and can withstand much more than 10#
boost...unlike the factory Dodge Air Hat which comes apart
with 9# or more boost.
(3) If you're really wanting a lot
of boost, grab a spare alternator pulley, cut a keyway groove
on the inner hole (to match the grove depth on the Powerdyne
Pulley), and install it. The factory Alternator pulley
makes 13# boost!! WARNING - USE AT YOUR OWN
RISK...You WILL void the warranty on the Supercharger and risk
damaging your engine unless it's built for this type of boost
level (Pistons, Crank, Rods, O-Rings Head/Block
Surface).
Top
Upper Control Arm
Bushing Problem:
It's a known fact that the passenger-side, upper
control arm bushings deteriorate much quicker than the
driver-side. This is due to the offset of the engine in
the engine bay. The heat from the factory manifold
causes the rubber to deteriorate prematurely...not because of
headers as some dealerships claim. (It happens to both
factory manifolds and headers...even Mopar headers.)
There is a TSB (Technical Service
Bulletin) on this from 1997-2000 vehicles
(Dakota/Durango).
Upper Control Arm Bushing TSB - MS
Word
Upper Control Arm Bushing TSB - Adobe
PDF
Top
TPS
Modification:
(Applies to '92 -Current models)
Have you ever noticed that slight stumble right
off idle when you mash the pedal to the floor? Here's an
easy fix for the sluggish response of the throttle (which is
related to the TPS Sensor).
Here's a chart that shows the change in the
Absolute TPS% that the PCM sees
TPS Voltage
Absolute TPS%
|
.44v |
7.9% |
|
.53v |
10.1% |
|
.685v |
12.5% |
|
.75v |
13.7% |
|
.82v |
15.3% |
Check your TPS voltage before doing this
modification as none of the factory sensors are calibrated the
same. We've seen ranges from .3v-.7v...from the
factory. Connect a Digital Volt Meter to the middle
terminal on the TPS sensor (with the harness connected and the
Key-ON/Engine-OFF). If it's close to .7v...leave it
alone.
(1) Remove your TPS Sensor from the vehicle
(Located on the drivers side of the throttle body - 3-Wire
Connector)
(2) Put the TPS into a vice and drill the two
brass inserts out of the casing with a 1/4" or 7/32" drill bit
(drill from the back of the sensor...not the front).
You'll need to push on the drill as it will only spin the
inserts...once they're heated up enough, they'll pop right
out.
(3) Clean up the holes with either the drill or
(preferred) a small round file.
(4) Reinstall the TPS
Sensor on the throttle body. You'll need two small
washers on the screws as the holes are now bigger than the
screw head. Leave it slightly loose as you're going to
have to set the initial Key ON/Engine OFF Voltage before
starting the engine.
(5) Reconnect the TPS sensor harness
and connect a Digital Volt Meter to the middle terminal
on the TPS Sensor (you can poke through the weather-proof
connector).
(6) Turn the ignition key ON but do NOT start
the engine.
(7) Set the initial voltage (by turning it with
your fingers) on the TPS at about .7 volts. (Optimum
range is from .7 - .75 volts)
(8) Tighten down the TPS
screws and check the voltage one more time (yes...it can move
slightly when tightening it down)
(9) Start the engine but
do NOT step on the accelerator pedal...let the computer learn
the new initial voltage setting.
(10) Turn the engine off
and close the hood...drive away of you want...your throttle
response should be much more precise now.
Here are some pictures for the various
steps:
Factory TPS Sensor w/Brass Inserts |
TPS Sensor in the vice (ready to
drill) |
Modified TPS Sensor Holes |
TPS Sensor reinstalled with
washers |
Some have claimed that the TPS Sensor is
adjustable on the actual throttle body without any
modifications...this is completely false. There is no
room for adjustment unless you drill the inserts out.
Top
Denso-Iridium Spark
Plugs
We spoke with the folks from Denso at at the
SEMA show on the Iridium plugs and decided to purchase a set
($8.50/plug approximately). We're using the recommended
IQ16's in our '97 Dakota and, quite honestly, they don't
perform any better than the Autolite 3923's (or 3922's) I
normally run. We'll check out the long-term fuel economy
as well...but the initial results aren't too promising.
Update - 11/12/01: We've put about 100
miles on the plugs and they do seem to work better on the
highway under light acceleration. Please keep in mind
that we are testing them on a
Supercharger/Nitroused/Intercooled V6 and the performance
increases from the plugs may not be as noticeable as on a
normally aspirated engine. Our personal opinion, not a
bad plug at all but don't see spending over $8.00 per
plug. We're still keeping an eye on the fuel economy so
there will be one or two more updates on that parts of the
test.
Update 02/20/02: We've run the truck with
over 5000 miles on the Denso spark plugs and are switching
back to the Autolites. While the Denso Iridium plugs
will outlast the Autolites, the Accel ignition, boost, and
nitrous have taken a toll on the plugs. For the average
daily driver, they Iridium plugs are a good
alternative/replacement (especially for Platinum plugs) but
don't work any better than the Autolites in our specific
case.
Top
What is a "S-Bolt" and how
do I make one
Here's the actual measurements. You'll
need about 12" of 1/4"x20 rod from your local Home
Depot. (The reason for the 12" is in case you make a few
mistakes...this leaves you extra material for practice.)
Top
Engine -
Rattling/Lifter Type Noise
NO: 09-07-97
GROUP:
Engine
DATE: June 27, 1997
SUBJECT:
Timing Chain Noise
MODELS: (Applies to '98+ models as
well)
1990 - 1997 (AN) Dakota
1990 - 1997 (AB) Ram
Van/Wagon
1990 - 1993 (AD) Ram Pickup/Ram Cab &
Chassis/Ramcharger
1994 - 1997 (BR) Ram Truck
NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED
WITH A 3.9L ENGINE.
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
A Rattling or
lifter type noise coming from the front (chain case) area of
the engine.
DIAGNOSIS:
Start the engine and bring
it to operating temperature. Increase and decrease engine RPM
slightly while listening to the front end of the engine for a
rattling or lifter type noise. A stethoscope can be used to
help pin point the noise location. If the noise is found
coming from the timing chain case, perform the Repair
Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED:
1
83507095 Timing Chain and
Sprocket Package
1
53021057 Gasket, Timing
Chain Case
1
02129013 Gasket, Water
Pump 1990 - 1991
1
04483757 Gasket, Water
Pump 1992 - 1997
1
4897297AA Seal, Front Case 1992
- 1997
1
03830109 Seal, Front Case
1990 - 1991
1
53021195AA Tensioner, Timing Chain
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin involves replacing the timing
chain and sprockets and installing a timing chain
tensioner.
|
1. |
Following the appropriate service manual procedures,
disassemble the front end of the engine to gain access
to the timing chain and sprockets. |
|
2. |
Remove the chain and sprockets from the engine.
Discard the parts
. 
|
|
3. |
Remove the thrust plate and chain oil tab (Figure 1).
Discard the parts.
|
|
4. |
Install the timing chain tensioner p/n 53021195AA in
the position where the thrust plate and oil tab was
installed (Figure 2). Torque the bolts to 24 Nm (210 in.
lbs.). |
|
5. |
Install the new timing sprockets and chain p/n
083507095. Align the timing marks per the appropriate
service manual procedure. Torque the camshaft bolt to 68
Nm (50 ft. lbs.). |
|
6. |
Remove the lock pin that holds the tensioner plate
for the chain. Discard the pin.
|
NOTE: WITH THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER INSTALLED,
THE CAMSHAFT END PLAY WILL BE 0.051 - 0.330 MM (.002 TO .013
IN).
|
7. |
Reinstall the remaining components per the
appropriate service manual procedures.
|
POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of
the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No:
09-10-05-92
2.3 Hrs.
Optional
Equipment:
09-10-05-61 Power Steering
0.2
Hrs.
09-10-05-63
Air
Conditioning
0.4 Hrs.
FAILURE
CODE: P8 - New Part
Top
Lonewolf Software:
Automotive Wolf v4.10
While we normally don't want to endorse or
promote software for your vehicle, this is a utility that
we've been using for quite some time now. It has all the
necessary features for tracking your vehicles maintenance
schedule as well as quite a few others as well.
» Detailed Maintenance and Repair Records:
»
Displays Maintenance / Inspection Reminders:
» Predicts
when maintenance and inspections are due
» Configurable
maintenance/inspection requirements
» Valuable Car Care
Tips section
» Automotive Systems Reference
» Automotive
diagnosis and troubleshooting!
» Cost Analysis (cost/mile,
cost/year etc)
» Track fuel usage
» Increases the resale
value of your vehicle!
» Quickly print out a "What's due"
list
» Unlimited vehicles
» Network compatible
»
Auto-upgrading
» Alarms, advice and More!
You can download the shareware version from the manufacturers website at: http://www.lonewolf-software.com/
Top
Information on all sorts
of Mopar Engines (Past and Present)
AllPar
Website
Top
How to relocate your
IAT Sensor
-
The IAT Sensor is located on the #2 Intake
Runner (3.9/5.2/5.9L) or under the Throttle Body, in the
manifold (4.7L) - Big Brass looking sensor with two wires
(Grayish connector)
-
Remove the IAT sensor from the manifold and
plug the hole with a 1/4" NPT Pipe Plug (Home Depot)
-
Drill a 1/2" hole in the intake tube and
thread the IAT sensor into the hole (use some silicone if
you want...not required though) - You may have to extend the
wires about 6-12" in some cases (use 16ga. wire)
Top
Looking for that "Pro
Street" Look on your Dakota
For over 17 years now MAGNUMFORCE RACE CAR
FABRICATION has been producing some of the finest and fastest
cars around. Although our roots began with Drag
Racing and Pro Street cars the fact is that virtually every
form of motor sports at some time or another has been
represented here. Silver State, NASCAR, NHRA, SCCA, Indy cars,
Drag bikes, custom Harleys, Off road, Exotic imports, Drag
boats, Muscle Cars, Street Rods, Law Enforcement, and even
military tanks (yes tanks!).
MAGNUMFORCE Race Car
Fabrication
Top
Excessive Oil
Consumption and/or Spark Knock (Belly Pan TSB)
This covers 1997+ 3.9/5.2/5.9L Magnum
Engines
MS
Word Format Adobe
PDF Format
Top
What's NEW for 2002 -
Dodge Dakota
Dodge Dakota - All Models: Adobe
PDF (1.93MB)
Top
Do those "Wonder Oils"
really work?
While we try to refrain from degrading other
products that we haven't tested...we've tested these and they
do NOT work and have had claims filed against them from the
FTC.
Dura-Lube: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/9905/duralub2.htm
ProLong: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/9909/prolong.htm
MotorUp: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/9904/motorup5.htm
Slick50: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/9607/slick.htm
Z-Max: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.htm
Lubricants that work in outer space may not work
here on earth at all. Materials like PTFE are claimed to have
the lowest coefficient of friction, but even the manufacturer
of PTFE do not recommend it to be used in an internal
combustion engine. Why? It cannot withstand the heat! It
is too fragile a compound and it decomposes and turns into a
sticky plastic residue and a corrosive fluorine gas. Are
you sure you want this in your crankcase?
Top
Shocks - Lifted or Lowered
Trucks
So you've lifted or lowered your truck...but
does that mean that you need a different length shock? Not
necessarily. You need a different length shock if the distance
between the shock's upper and lower mounting points have
changed drastically.
Say you've lowered your truck with 2 in. drop
spindles in front and 3 in. lowering blocks in back. The
distances between the shock mounting points have decreased,
but are still within the limits of a stock length
shock.
But what if you go with a 4 in. front/6 in. rear
slam? The shock mounting points will be closer together and
now you'll need shorter shocks. The same principle applies to
trucks with suspension lift kits (Body lift kits don't
affect shock mounting points).
Top
Cab Mount - Popping Noise
on Steep Inclines
NO: 23-65-97 Rev. A
GROUP: Body
DATE:
December 31, 1997
SUBJECT: Loud Popping Noise Is Heard When
Vehicle Makes A Sharp Turn Onto A Steep Incline
1997-2001 (AN) Dakota
NOTE: This bulletin
applies to 4X2 and 4X4 extended cab vehicles.
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
A loud popping
noise is heard coming from the rear of the cab as the vehicle
is turned onto a steep incline such as a driveway approach.
DIAGNOSIS:
Drive the vehicle and turn
onto a steep incline while listening for a popping noise
coming from the rear of the cab. If a popping noise is heard,
perform the following Repair Procedure.
PARTS
REQUIRED:
2
06501557 Bolt, Cab Isolator Mounting
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin
involves removing the rear cab isolators and removing 1/4 in.
to 3/8 in. of material from the isolator sleeve.
- Using a suitable hoist, raise the vehicle.
- Remove the two rear cab isolator mounting bolts (Figure
1) and the rear under-cab isolators.
- Using a suitable jack, raise the cab off the rear cab
upper isolator high enough to be able to slide a block of
wood between the cab cross member and the frame.
- Place blocks of wood between the cab cross member and
the frame and lower the cab onto the blocks of wood.
- Remove both rear cab upper isolators.
- Grind 1/4 in. to 3/8 in. off the metal sleeve of the
rear cab upper isolator as shown in Figure 2. Perform this
operation on both rear cab upper isolators.
