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Tips and Tricks

>How to reset the PCM Ignition System - MSD
When should I reset the PCM Ignition System - Accel
How to clean your Throttle Body Budget Modifications - V6/V8
How to clean the IAC Solenoid Poor idle with big cam
Initial Performance Recommendations 4.7L Throttle Body Swap
Oil Recommendations Throttle Body Spacers
Spark Plug Recommendations Which Thermostat temperature should I use
O2 Sensor Replacement What gap to set your Sparkplugs at
Which exhaust is better What is OPEN and CLOSED Loop Operation
How to adjust the TV Cable Emissions Warranty for 1995 and Newer Vehicles
What Flowmaster is best for my V6 Will aftermarket parts void my warranty
I want to run Nitrous on my V6/V8 Alternative way to install your A/F Meter
Distributor Indexing Crower Rocker Arm Installation (Crower Instructions)
How to check codes on a 1999 Dodge How to bleed the braking system (Base Instructions)
Mopar Performance PCM Matrix Can I adjust my Ignition Timing
Supercharged V6 Tuning Tips I'm experiencing Instrument Panel "glitches" - (Bad Ground) TSB
I want more boost out of my Powerdyne Supercharger What is the Spark Plug Wire Reroute TSB?  (V6 and V8)
How to modify the TPS Sensor for better throttle response I've got four (4) O2 Sensors...what do they do?
Denso-Iridium Spark Plugs Upper Control Arm Bushing Problem
Dakota R/T Modifications Matrix What is a "S-Bolt" and how do I make one?
Magnum V6 - Timing Chain TSB Software for Automotive Maintenance
Information on ALL Mopar Engines Excessive Oil Consumption and/or Spark Knock (Belly Pan TSB)
Looking for that "Pro Street" Look for your Mopar or Dakota What's NEW for 2002 - Dodge Dakota (All Models)
How to relocate your IAT Sensor Carfax Services
Do those "Wonder Oils" really work (DuraLube, Slick50, etc.) How to repair the Plenum Gasket (Belly Pan Gasket)
Shocks - Lifted or Lowered Trucks Cab Mount - Popping Noise on Steep Inclines
Popping Sensation/Noise In Steering Column While Turning How to properly Dyno Test Modifications
20HP Timing Advance Kit - eBay (WARNING) What grade of fuel should I use - Octane
Spreadsheets for your PC or PDA - Excel Spreadsheets       

 More tips and tricks coming soon....


How to Reset the PCM:

  • Disconnect NEG Battery Terminal

  • Turn the ignition key to the START position and hold for 15-20 seconds

  • Release key (OFF) and reconnect the battery

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When should I reset the PCM:

If you change items such as the Throttle Body, Headers, Ignition System (or any internal parts with aftermarket, performance parts), then you should reset the PCM.  Items such as: Plug Wires, Cap, Rotor, Spark Plugs, Muffler, and Air Filter (not intake...filter) don't require this at all. The PCM will gradually relearn as you drive anyway...that takes about 200 miles for a complete long-term learn.

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How to Clean the IAC Solenoid:

This is recommended at every Tune-Up to prevent excess carbon buildup on the IAC plunger.  In some cases, you'll notice a slightly erratic idle quality.  This is the first step in taking care of that problem.  IAC = Intake Air Control (Solenoid).

  •  
  • Remove the Air Hat from the Throttle Body

  • Disconnect the sensor harness from the IAC Solenoid (Rear of Throttle Body)

  • Remove the two Torx-25 Screws

  • Remove the IAC Solenoid (Be careful not to lose the rubber O-Ring)

  • Spray some Carb/TB Cleaner in the IAC port on the Throttle Body and let it sit

  • Spray some Carb/TB Cleaner on the tip of the IAC Solenoid and wipe clean (Do NOT forcefully twist or push the plunger - You will damage the Solenoid.  Wipe very gently.)

  • Spray a little bit more Carb/TB Cleaner in the IAC port on the Throttle Body and wipe clean with a thin/lint-free rag

  • Reinstall the IAC Solenoid (Make sure you don't lose the rubber gasket on the solenoid)

  • Reinstall the sensor connector and airhat

  • Start the engine and let idle for about 1 minute.

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How to clean your Throttle Body:

Most people think that cleaning the throttle body requires a can of Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner and a quick "wash" of the bores.  This may work, but only washes the dirt and cleaner down into your intake manifold where it can puddle up and break down the belly-pan gasket.  Then, it also is pulled into the combustion chamber where is can foul up the spark plugs.

The proper way to clean your throttle body is to remove it from the engine (you'll need a small pan, some compressed air, and a new throttle body gasket for this procedure):

1. Remove your air hat from the throttle body
2. Disconnect the sensor connectors (TPS, MAP, and IAC)
3. Remove the four throttle body bolts
4. Lift the throttle body up and away from the intake manifold (place a rag over the manifold opening to prevent anything from falling inside)
5. Remove the three sensors (Do not drop them)
6. Remove the three screws for the throttle linkage (Not required...can be done with linkage attached)
7. Place the throttle body in a small pan and spray Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner in the bores, underside passages, and ports.  Let soak for about a minute.
8. Clean the IAC Solenoid - Refer to "How to clean the IAC Solenoid"
9. Spray some more Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner in the bores and ports of the throttle body
10. Wipe clean with a lint free rag (baby diaper works well) and blow out all the ports with some compressed air (a small can from a electronics store works just fine).
11. Reinstall all sensors, then reinstall on your vehicle with a new Throttle Body gasket (don't forget to remove the rag)

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Initial Performance Recommendations:

Always start with the basics first.  Your engine (no matter who built it) is an air pump (plain and simple).  The more efficiently you get the air in and the more efficiently you get it out, the more power you'll make.  Simple Intake and Exhaust modifications are always the least expensive route and can even increase your fuel economy.  Not to get into the technical details, here's a simple list to follow:

  • Install a Cold Air Kit (K&N, Intense Performance, PaceSetter, etc.)

  • Install a Performance Muffler (Flowmaster, Dynomax, and Gibson are just three of many out there)

  • Install a 180 Degree Thermostat (Keeping the engine slightly cooler makes more power.  The factory 195+ T'Stats are mainly for emissions purposes)

  • A good set of Spark Plug wires, Brass Contact Cap and Rotor, and a quality set of plugs will always help out your ignition system (DIS, or "Distributor-Less" ignition systems not included in this recommendation)

  • Run a quality fuel.  Chevron or Exxon are good choices...just stay away from the "Mom and Pop" stations.  Putting old or dirty fuel in your tank won't help your engine.  Also, try to stay away from your favorite gas station when they're filling up the tanks.  Any sediment on the bottom of the tank will be mixed in with the new fuel and may get into your tank.  

Those are just the basics.  There are many options on ignition systems, throttle bodies, headers, etc., but it all comes down to "What goes in, must come out".  Take care of that department first and you're on your way to making more power.

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Oil Recommendations:

There's a lot of "Hocus Pocus" on who's oil is better and Synthetic vs. "Dino" Oil.  We've run Redline, Amsoil, Mobil-1, Castrol, Valvoline, and a few others just to see what would happen.  What ultimately happened was that we were a few dollars shorter in our pocket book.  If you change your oil at the recommended intervals (normally 3500-5000 miles), a good Non-Synthetic oil won't hurt your engine one bit (unless it's low-grade "El-Cheapo" oil).  If you want those last few HP out of your engine or race your vehicle every weekend, switch over to Synthetic Oil.  It will last slightly longer in your engine but does cost more than regular oil. Which do we recommend?  We're not going to recommend any since it causes problems between vendors and personal preferences.

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Spark Plug Recommendations:

While the factory and factory replacement spark plugs work, the Magnum engines have shown slightly better performance with the Autolite 3923 Spark Plugs.  The Autolite 3923's are a standard tip spark plug that is one heat range colder than stock, as compared to the extended "Special Power Tip" plugs that the engine came with.  Why the difference?  A standard tip plug is less susceptible to detonation, is a good replacement for modified Magnum engines, and work very well with modified engines as well...especially when using Nitrous or a Supercharger.  In some cases, the Autolite 3923's also showed a 4-5HP difference at the rear wheels on the Dyno.  (The test was performed with new OEM Spark plugs vs. the Autolite 3923's.  No changes to the engine and the plugs were tested on the same day under the same conditions.)

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O2 Sensor Replacement:

The O2 sensor(s) on your vehicle are designed to sense Oxygen in the exhaust stream.  When they sense too much "air", they richen up the mixture and when the don't sense enough "air", they lean out the fuel mixture.  Under normal conditions, they should last you 60-80K miles.  However, we all drive in varying traffic conditions so the life of the O2 sensor is diminished.  We recommend that you change the O2 sensor(s) every 60K miles to keep your engine running in optimal condition.  (This includes the regular service intervals and tune-up schedules.)

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Which exhaust system is better:

Many people have debated this and a lot of it has to do with loyalty to a company label.  We have personally run Dynomax, MagnaFlow, Flowmaster, Ravin, JBA mufflers and exhaust systems, and found that the single exit systems were slightly better than the dual exit systems...on the Dyno and at the track.  The reason for this is that on a single exit system, the exhaust pulses don't fight each other on the exit. 

They all sounded good, all performed much better than stock, and all had a slightly different price tag on them.  Which one should you use?  The one that sounds and looks the best to you.  We all have different tastes when it comes to our idea of what sound good so base your opinion on the sound quality...not the advertised flow ratings or who sponsors what race.

A brief note on the advertised flow ratings of mufflers:  Mufflers are rated on a Flow bench.  This uses a regulated flow rather than the random pulses found in the exhaust stream which doesn't say anything in regards to the performance quality on street driven (or weekend racer) vehicles.  So why buy a 1000+CFM muffler that you can see through rather than the chambered style?  If you want to spend the money, like the sound, and own a race car (Bracket, Drag, etc.)...by all means, go for it.  Just remember, just because you can see through it doesn't mean its any better than a chambered.

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Ignition Systems (MSD):

Most people choose the MSD Ignition Systems as their "High Performance" ignition system.  There's nothing wrong with them and the only reason we don't provide the MSD systems on this site is that MSD doesn't seem to want to work with the smaller shops on pricing.  If you do decide to run with the MSD system, make sure that you get the following parts with your order:

  • MSD Tach Adapter Harness - P/N# 8910.  It prevents Code-43 from tripping in the PCM.  "Diagnostic Trouble Code P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction, Peak Primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time."

  • MSD Universal Harness - P/N# 8873.  It minimizes the excessive cutting of the factory wiring harness.

You can download the MSD 8910 Instructions here:  MSD 8910 Tach Adapter (Adobe PDF Format)

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Ignition Systems (Accel):

The Accel 300+ System is a complete "Plug and Play" system but does require a few pieces if you only choose to run with the Accel Coil that's designed as a factory replacement fit (#140021).  You'll need to pick up the adapter harness for the '98 and newer Dakota/Durango/Ram Trucks.  The part number is: 140021AH.  This coil and adapter is included in the Accel 300+ Digital Ignition System Kit for the Dodge trucks.

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"Budget Modifications" for your V6/V8:

  • Build yourself a "Home-Brew" 3" Intake system from Black Plastic tubing found at Home Depot and grab a Fernco rubber coupling (to attach to your airhat) - $10 approximately
  • Add a 6x9" K&N Cone Filter - $35 approximately
  • Remove the rubber flap on the passenger-side/radiator support (adds cold air to the intake) - FREE
  • 180 Degree Robert Shaw High-Flow Thermostat - $9 approximately
  • Relocate IAT Sensor into the intake tube - FREE
  • DynoMax Super-Turbo - Single 2.5" IN/OUT (Replaces factory muffler) - $65 Installed approximately

Total cost of the modifications listed is around $150-$160.  You can also add a V6 to V8 Throttle Body conversion kit to your V6 for an extra $210 + Shipping...we carry it in stock.

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Poor idle with big cam (112 degrees or less on Lobe Separation)

If you install a larger cam that has a Lobe Separation of less than 112 degrees, you will notice a very poor idle (sometimes dies at the light) and running too rich at idle as well.  This is caused by the MAP signal being too low due to the cam.  The MAP vacuum at idle (with a stock cam) is 12-13" at the MAP port on the throttle body.  With a larger cam, that has a 108-110 degree Lobe Separation, the vacuum at the MAP port is 6-8".  This is too low and will cause poor idle qualities.  

Plug the MAP port on the throttle body and relocate the MAP line to manifold vacuum (should be about 12-13" at idle).  This will simulate the factory signal and your idle quality will be back to normal.  There is no adverse affect on the cruise or WOT performance with this modification.  

Recommendation:  Select a Cam with 112-114 degrees Lobe Separation.  They are MAP friendly.

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4.7L Throttle Body Swap:

For those who don't know, the 4.7L comes with two flavors of throttle bodies.  The '99-'00 models use a 65mm and the '01 models use a 68mm throttle body.  You can easily swap out the later model 68mm throttle body for your performance-limiting 65mm without any problems.  You can tell which one you have by looking at the stamped number on the throttle plate.  "65" = 65mm / "68" = 68mm

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Throttle Body Spacers (Primarily the "Helix" style):

These spacers do not provide any gains in HP at all.  They claim to increase TQ and MPG but we tested one and it gained nothing.  The Dyno showed no gains in HP or TQ.  We also had contacted one of the manufacturers for their comments on them and here's the direct quote (from email):

--------------------------------------------

From: AirAid Info
Subject: Re: AIRAID.COM Contact Form
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 09:20:36 -0700

Dear Sir, thank you for your inquiry in our products. The spacer makes no HP on the Dyno. It makes all of it's power in torque in the low end. If you haven't noticed any power on the Dyno or the track then it's doing what it's supposed to. You would not see any gains down the 1/4 mile or increases on the Dyno. The idea of the spacer is to improve overall drivability and fuel mileage. In most cases when people install a bolt on part they expect better mileage and power, what happens is they are into the throttle a lot more than before trying to test performance and that's when the decrease in mileage happens.

Sincerely,

<Airaid Technician>
-------------------------------------------

Points to look at:

  • "The spacer makes no HP on the Dyno. It makes all of it's power in torque in the low end."
  • "If you haven't noticed any power on the Dyno or the track then it's doing what it's supposed to."
  • "The idea of the spacer is to improve overall drivability and fuel mileage."

So...it doesn't make any more HP, is not supposed to help in 1/4 mile performance (or on the Dyno), and is mainly for mileage and bottom end Torque. Well, Dyno's show TQ figures and there were no changes, mileage stayed the same, and 1/4 mile performance wasn't affected on the several others who have tried it (including us).  They also are still not able to explain how the spacer keeps the swirl effect through the two turns (90 degree and 45 degree) in the intake plenum of the Dodge Ram/Dakota/Durango manifolds.

While the Throttle Body Spacer showed no gains on the 3.9/5.2/5.9L Magnum engines, the 4.7L engines have been reported to show noticeable gains from the spacer.  Why?  It's a much more efficient intake system with less restrictions than the Magnum engines.  It may work just fine for the 4.7L crowd but we'll look into this at a later date for Dyno and long term MPG testing.

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Which Thermostat temperature should I use:

The Magnum engines respond very well to a 180 degree thermostat.  The factory thermostat is a 195 degree which is great for emissions but not so great for performance.  Changing it out to a 180 degree model will keep the engine slightly cooler which will help make more power.  Please be aware that just swapping the thermostat, without any other modifications, won't gain you a whole lot of extra power.  All modifications work together and most will complement each other.  Example:  180 T'Stat used with a Cold Air Kit, Headers, and a good Cat-Back system.  The 180 degree thermostats will not affect your emissions output either.

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What Gap to set your Sparkplugs at:

This is a common question with an easy answer.  Whatever the factory recommends for the stock ignition system on your vehicle.

If you are running an aftermarket coil and/or ignition system (MSD, Accel, etc,), normally you can open the gap up by .005" - .010" more than factory specifications.  However, with Supercharging or Nitrous applications, you would want to reduce the gap about .005" due to the higher cylinder pressures that occur with both Superchargers and Nitrous.  If you plan on using the Autolite 3923 sparkplugs in your Magnum engine, stick with the same guidelines.

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Open and Closed Loop Operation:

There are 7 different modes (conditions) that are used (besides Key-ON and Key-Off mode).  Here is a table of what sensors are monitored and what determines the mode.  One thing to remember, under OPEN LOOP Operation, the O2 Sensor(s) are ignored by the PCM.

Engine Start-Up Mode (OPEN LOOP) 
Battery Voltage 
Coolant Temp 
Crank Position 
Intake Air Temp (IAT)
MAP 
TPS 
Starter Motor Relay 
Cam Position 
Engine Warm-Up Mode (OPEN LOOP) 
Battery Voltage 
Coolant Temp 
Crank Position 
Intake Air Temp (IAT)
MAP 
TPS 
Cam Position 
Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Automatics Only) 
Idle mode (Once at Operating Temp: CLOSED LOOP) 
A/C Select (if equipped) 
A/C Request (if equipped) 
Battery Voltage 
Coolant Temp 
Crank Position 
Intake Air Temp (IAT)
MAP 
TPS 
Cam Position 
O2 Sensors 
Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Automatics Only) 
Cruise Mode (CLOSED LOOP) 
A/C Select (if equipped) 
A/C Request (if equipped) 
Battery Voltage 
Coolant Temp 
Crank Position 
Intake Air Temp (IAT)
MAP 
TPS 
Cam Position 
O2 Sensors 
Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Automatics Only) 
Acceleration Mode (OPEN LOOP) 
A/C Select (if equipped) 
A/C Request (if equipped) 
Battery Voltage 
Coolant Temp 
Crank Position 
Intake Air Temp (IAT)
MAP 
TPS 
Cam Position 
Vehicle Speed Sensor 
Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Automatics Only) 
Deceleration Mode (OPEN LOOP) 
A/C Select (if equipped) 
A/C Request (if equipped) 
Battery Voltage 
Coolant Temp 
Crank Position 
Intake Air Temp (IAT)
MAP 
TPS 
Cam Position 
Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Automatics Only) 
Vehicle Speed Sensor 
Wide Open Throttle - WOT (OPEN LOOP) 
Battery Voltage 
Coolant Temp 
Crank Position 
Intake Air Temp (IAT)
MAP 
TPS 
Cam Position 
      

 

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Emissions Warranty for 1995 and Newer Vehicles:

EPA Website: EPA Environmental Fact Sheet


Will aftermarket parts void my warranty:

This is a common question with an easy answer:  NO. 

Federal law sets forth requirements for warranties and contains a number of provisions to prevent vehicle manufacturers, dealers and others from unjustly denying warranty coverage. With regard to aftermarket parts, the gist of the law is that warranty coverage cannot be denied simply because such parts are present on the vehicle, or have been used.  The warranty coverage can be denied only if the aftermarket part caused the malfunction or damage for which warranty coverage is sought. Disputes in this area usually boil down to arguments over facts and technical opinions, rather than arguments over interpretations of the law.

You can read more about this at:  http://www.sema.org/warranty

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TV Cable Adjustments (V6/V8 Magnum Engines)

GENERAL INFORMATION
The transmission throttle valve is operated by the valve body throttle lever. The throttle lever is actuated by a cable connected to the engine throttle body lever. A lock button at the engine end of the cable provides for cable adjustment.

A correctly adjusted throttle valve cable, will cause the throttle lever on the transmission to move simultaneously with the throttle body lever from the idle position. Proper adjustment allows simultaneous movement without causing the transmission throttle lever to move ahead of, or lag behind the throttle body lever.

CHECK

  1. Turn ignition key to OFF position.
  2. Remove air cleaner.
  3. Verify that throttle body lever is at curb idle position. Then verify that transmission throttle lever is also at idle (full forward) position.
  4. Slide cable off attachment stud on throttle body lever.
  5. Compare position of cable end to attachment stud on throttle body lever:
    1. Cable end and attachment stud should be aligned (or centered on one another) to within 1 mm (0.039 inch) in either direction.
    2. If cable end and attachment stud are misaligned (off center), cable will have to be adjusted as described in following procedure.
  1. Reconnect cable end to attachment stud. Then with aid of a helper, observe movement of transmission throttle lever and lever on throttle body.
    1. If both levers move simultaneously from idle to half-throttle and back to idle position, adjustment is correct.
    2. If transmission throttle lever moves ahead of, or lags behind throttle body lever, cable adjustment will be necessary. Or, if throttle body lever prevents transmission lever from returning to closed position, cable adjustment will be necessary.

PROCEDURE

  1. Turn ignition switch to OFF position and shift into Park.
  2. Remove air cleaner.
  3. Disconnect cable end from attachment stud on throttle body.
  4. Verify that transmission throttle lever is in idle (full forward) position. Then be sure lever on throttle body is at curb idle position.
  5. Insert a small screwdriver under edge of retaining clip and remove retaining clip.
  6. Center cable end on attachment stud to within 1 mm (0.039 inch) and release cable button.
  7. Install retaining clip onto cable: housing.
  8. Check cable adjustment. Be sure transmission throttle lever and lever on throttle body move simultaneously and as described in cable adjustment checking procedure.

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Alternative connections for your A/F Meter:

Most people will drill a hole in their floor board to install the wire from their Air/Fuel Meter to the O2 sensor (in front of the Catalytic Converter).  First of all, you don't need to drill any holes at all.  Second, you can use the wire harness at the PCM instead for a cleaner installation.  On the '97 - '99 Dodge Dakota models, it's the 18ga. Orange w/Tan stripe wire.  This is for the forward O2 signal to the PCM.  Just carefully strip away a small section of the insulation from the OR/Tan wire and, preferably, solder the A/F Meter signal wire to it.  Then, put a small dap of silicone over the solder joint and tape it back up with your favorite electrical tape. 

However, the best way still is to connect an Air Fuel meter is with it's own O2 sensor.

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Crower Rocker Arm Installation:

  • Disconnect coil wire. Remove air cleaner and inlet hose. Clear a path to remove the valve covers
  • Remove spark plug wires and valve cover hold down bolts.
  • Remove valve covers. Clean them and set them aside.
  • Remove stock rockers, leaving pushrods in place. Don’t let pushrods drop down into engine.
  • Install Crower studs (#88416 for V6, V8, V10 Magnum / #88417 for V10 Viper).
  • Torque studs to 20-24 ft lbs for #88416 or 30-38 ft lbs for #88417.
  • Install Crower rockers arms and sure-lock nuts. Make sure that the pushrods are still seated in the tappets. DO NOT TIGHTEN DOWN NUTS.
  • Turn engine over (may require another person) so that cylinder you’re adjusting has both the intake and the exhaust lifters on base circle of cam (rocker arms should be level to each other.
  • Adjust sure-locks down until clearance at pushrod is zero, then crank down sure-lock a 1/2 to 3/4 turn.
  • Lock down Allen-head screw into sure-lock nut.
  • Repeat steps rocker adjustment on each cylinder individually.
  • When all cylinders are adjusted, pre-lube the rockers with engine oil.
  • Reinstall valve covers and valve cover bolts.
  • Disable distributor and turn engine over to pump up hydraulic lifters. Enable distributor.
  • Start engine and let idle at normal speed.

Note: Initial fire-up may produce tappet noise for a short period of time until lifters have a chance to adjust themselves. If tappet noise continues for more than 30 seconds, shut engine off for about 2 minutes. Start engine again and let idle. Tappet noise should be going away or be gone. Caution: If after 3 or 4 starts and stops (with 2 minute intervals in between) the tappet noise is still there, repeat the rocker arm adjustment steps.

Test drive vehicle, keeping the engine below 4500 rpm for the first 50 miles to allow proper rocker break-in and allow the vehicle’s computer to adjust to the new modifications.

V10 Magnum: Must remove upper half of intake manifold. Requires new upper plenum gasket (#530006838). If you have any questions regarding installation, do not hesitate to call Crower’s Tech Line at 619-422-1191.

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What Flowmaster is best for my V6:

You have several options on the V6 from Flowmaster for custom exhaust systems:

Flowmaster 50-Series SUV: 525552 (2.5" IN/Dual 2.25"OUT)
Flowmaster 50-Series SUV: 52555 (Single 2.5" IN/OUT)
Flowmaster 50-Series Performance: 425502 (2.5" IN/Dual 2.0" OUT)
Flowmaster 40-Series Performance: 42540 (Single 2.5" IN/OUT)
Flowmaster "Delta-Force" Series: 425509 (Single 2.5" IN/OUT)

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Spreadsheets for your PC or PDA:

These three spreadsheets are in Excel format but are small enough to fit on your PDA.  We really like the TinySheet utility from Iambic Software and highly recommend it for Palm users.

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How to bleed the Brake System (Base Instructions):

Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at all times.

Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into small bubbles that are distributed throughout the hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding operations necessary.

Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as needed.

Bleed only one brake component at a time in the following sequence:

  • Master Cylinder
  • Combination Valve
  • Rear Antilock Valve
  • Right Rear Wheel
  • Left Rear Wheel
  • Right Front Wheel
  • Left Front Wheel

MANUAL BLEEDING

  1. Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
  2. If calipers or wheel cylinders were overhauled, open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more before proceeding.
  3. Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw and insert opposite end in glass container partially filled with brake fluid. Be sure end of bleed hose is immersed in fluid.
  4. Open up bleeder and then have a helper press down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next wheel.

PRESSURE BLEEDING
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the tank manufacturer’s pressure recommendations. Generally, a tank pressure of 15-20 PSI is sufficient for bleeding.

Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.

Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cylinder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leakage, or drawing air back into the system. Use adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter 6921.

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I want to run Nitrous on my V6/V8:

You can run a basic Nitrous system (NX preferred for the Mopar Magnums) without any modifications but the recommended modifications will provide you with not only better all around performance, but also improved performance with the Nitrous.

  • Cold Air Intake System (K&N Gen-II or Intense Performance)
  • Modified Throttle Body (48mm Flometrics or Fastman V6 - 50-52mm for V8)
  • Headers (JBA/Mopar)
  • A good flowing cat-back system (Gibson, Flowmaster, Dynomax, etc.)
  • 180 Degree thermostat
  • One heat range colder spark plug (Autolite 3923 - Gapped at no more than .038" for Nitrous.  Can use Autolite 3922's as well)
  • A good ignition system (at least replace the factory coil but MSD preferred - You WILL need a timing retard system for the 100HP or higher shot on a V6.  The V8's can run higher levels...but this is as a safety recommendation.)

Those are the modifications that will not only pep up your stock V6/V8, but will also help the Nitrous work much more efficiently. Adding Nitrous to a stock intake, exhaust is not going to give you the full effect/performance...but it will "work". 

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Can I Adjust my Ignition Timing

Simple answer...NO.  The base (initial) ignition timing is NOT adjustable. Do not attempt to adjust ignition timing by rotating the distributor. All ignition timing functions are controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

A DRB-III or equivalent scan tool may be used to verify base timing and electronic timing advance. Refer to the Scan Tool instructions for procedure. Fuel synchronization can be verified and set by rotating the distributor. Refer to the Distributor Removal/Installation/Checking Distributor Position.

Some people have modified their crank position sensors to allow for minor timing adjustments...this is NOT an easy modification and requires a scanner to get the timing set properly.  We do NOT recommend this at all.

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Distributor Indexing

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:

Vehicles may exhibit surging, light bucking, or intermittent engine misfiring. This will most likely occur when the vehicle is at operating temperature, and under a light load at approximately 2000 RPM. This condition may be caused by a mis-indexed distributor. The following procedure is an alternative to the indexing procedure outlined in the service manual.

REPAIR PROCEDURE:

This procedure outlines an alternative distributor indexing procedure.

Connect a voltmeter to the distributor sensor connector by removing the end seal and carefully back probing the connector. Connect the positive lead to the sensor output pin (pin 3, either a tan wire with a yellow tracer or a gray wire, depending on vehicle application). Connect the negative lead to the sensor ground pin (pin 2, a black wire with a light blue tracer).

Rotate the engine clockwise as viewed from the front, until the number one piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. The timing mark on the vibration damper should line up with the zero degree

(TDC) mark on the timing chain case cover.

Continue to rotate the engine slowly clockwise until the V6 or V8 mark (depending on engine type) lines up with the zero degree (TDC) mark on the timing chain case cover. The V8 mark is 17.5°after TDC and the V6 mark is 147°after TDC. NOTE: DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE COUNTER CLOCKWISE. IF THE ENGINE IS ROTATED BEYOND THE MARK, RETURN TO STEP 2 AND REPEAT THE PROCEDURE.

Loosen the distributor clamp bolt.

With the ignition switch in the ON position, rotate the distributor slightly in either direction until the voltmeter switches between the sensor transition point of 0 and 5 volts.

Adjust the distributor as close as possible to either side of this transition point and tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 19-26 N-m (170-230 in.lbs.) .

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Electrical - Multiple Systems Inoperative

NO: 08-10-98
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: Mar. 13, 1998

SUBJECT:
G202 Ground Diagnosis

MODELS:
1997-1998 (AN) Dakota
1998 (DN) Durango

DISCUSSION:

Inspect the G202 ground connection when multiple electrical complaints are encountered, such as the following:

Blower Motor Inoperative
Power Door Locks Inoperative
Dome Light Inoperative
Chime Inoperative
Keyless Entry Inoperative
Cigar Lighter Inoperative
Power Outlet Inoperative
Console Lights Inoperative
Radio Inoperative
Overhead Console Inoperative
Instrument Cluster Gauges Inoperative

The G202 ground connection uses the same bolt that secures the right and left lower instrument panel to the side cowl panel (Figure 1). After verifying that the mating surfaces of the ground connections are good, re-torque both right and left lower instrument panel bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).

 

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How to check codes on a 1999 Dodge

The 1999 Dodge Dakota shop manual, page 8E-6 has the following self diagnostic test that checks the instrument cluster and CCD data bus message-controlled indicator lamps, for the other codes a DRB scan tool is required.

NOTE:  If the ignition switch is turned to the off position during this test, or if a Vehicle speed message indicating the vehicle is moving is received from the PCM on the CCD data bus during the test, repeat test if required.

This is one continuous test 
1. Ignition switch off
2. Press and hold the trip reset knob
3. Turn the ignition switch to on but do not start.
4. Hold the reset knob for approx 10 seconds or until the word CHEC appears in the display then release.

 INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FAILURE MESSAGE

MESSAGE DESCRIPTION CORRECTION
110 A failure has been identified in the cluster CPU, RAM, or EEPROM. Replace the faulty cluster
900 The CCD data bus is not operational. 1. Check the CCD data bus connection at the cluster.
2. Check the cluster fuses.
3. Check the CCD data bus.
4. Check the CCD data bus voltage.
5. Check the CCD data bus terminations.
920 The cluster is not receiving a vehicle message from the PCM. 1. Check the PCM software level and re-flash if required.
2. Use a DRB scan tool to verify that the vehicle speed message is being sent by the PCM.
921 The cluster is not receiving a distance pulse message from the PCM. 1. Check the PCM software level and re-flash if required.
2. Use a DRB scan tool to verify that the distance pulse message is being sent by the PCM.
940 The cluster is not receiving an airbag message from the ACM 1. Check the CCD data bus connections at the ACM.
2. Check the ACM fuse.
950 The cluster is not receiving an ABS lamp-on message from the CAB. 1.Check the CCD data bus connections at the CAB
2. Check the CAB fuse.
999 An error has been discovered. 1. Record the failure message.
2. Depress the trip odometer reset button to continue the self diagnostic test.

If no fault codes appear the instrument cluster will begin a walking segment and gauge test.

Walking segment and gauge test

This test requires a visual inspection of each odometer segment as it is displayed to determine a pass or fail condition.

1.  All segments will be illuminated at once.
2.  Then each individual segment of the odometer display will be illuminated in sequence.
3. If any segment fails to illuminate, repeat test to confirm the failure.
4. If failure is confirmed replace the faulty instrument cluster.

The instrument cluster will perform a bulb check of each indicator lamp that the instrument cluster controls.

1.       If a individual amber indicator lamp does not illuminate the instrument cluster should be removed, however check that bulb is not faulty and bulb holder is properly installed on the circuit board before considering replacing instrument cluster. If bulb and holder are ok replace faulty instrument cluster.
2.       Each of the red indicators are illuminated by a LED. If a LED fails to illuminate the Instrument cluster must be replaced.  

The instrument cluster will perform a gauge actuator test. In this test the instrument cluster circuitry positions each of the gauge needles at three different calibration points, then returns them to their relaxed position. 

1.       If an individual gauge does respond properly or at all remove the instrument cluster and check the gauge terminal pins are properly inserted through the spring clip terminal pin receptacles on the instrument cluster.
2.       If the gauge terminal connections are ok replace the faulty cluster.

This ends the Self Diagnostic test. The instrument cluster will automatically exit the test and return to normal operation.   

(Procedure brought to our attention by Doug)

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Spark Plug Wire Reroute - TSB (1997-1999 V6/V8 Models)

Dodge Magnum Engine - 3.9L Plug Wire Reroute (MSWord)
Dodge Magnum Engine - 5.2/5.9L Plug Wire Reroute (MSWord)

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Mopar Performance PCM Matrix

Excel Format
HTML Format

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I've got Four (4) O2 Sensors...What do they do?

OXYGEN SENSOR-PCM INPUTS
When the vehicle is equipped with a this engine and two-wheel-drive (2WD), four heated O2S sensors Will be used. They are: Left, right, pre-catalyst and post catalyst. The left, right and post catalyst sensors will fine-tune air-fuel ratio. The pre-catalyst and post catalyst sensors will determine catalytic converter efficiency.

Two of these sensors are installed into the left and right exhaust manifold down pipes. The left O2S sensor will monitor cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7. The right sensor will monitor cylinders 2, 4, 6 and 8.

The sensors produce voltages from 0 to 1 volt , depending upon the oxygen content of the exhaust gas in the exhaust manifold. When a large amount of oxygen is present (caused by a lean air/fuel mixture), the sensors produces a low voltage. When there is a lesser amount present (rich air/fuel mixture) it produces a higher voltage. By monitoring the oxygen content and converting it to electrical voltage, the sensors act as a rich-lean switch.

The oxygen sensors are equipped with a heating element that keeps the sensors at proper operating temperature during all operating modes. Maintaining correct sensor temperature at all times allows the system to enter into closed loop operation sooner. Also, it allows the system to remain in closed loop operation during periods of extended idle.
In Closed Loop operation, the PCM monitors the O2S sensor input (along with other inputs) and adjusts the injector pulse width accordingly. During Open Loop operation, the PCM ignores the O2 sensor input. The PCM adjusts injector pulse width based on preprogrammed (fixed) values and inputs from other sensors.

The Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay supplies battery voltage to both oxygen sensors. The oxygen sensors are equipped with a heating elements. The heating elements reduce the time required for the sensors to reach operating temperature.

PRE-CATALYST OXYGEN SENSOR
The pre-catalyst O2S sensor is located in the inlet end of the catalytic converter. It provides an input voltage to the PCM. By comparing the input from the pre-catalyst O2S sensor, with the input from the post catalyst oxygen sensor, the PCM calculates catalytic converter efficiency.
POST CATALYST OXYGEN SENSOR
The post catalyst heated oxygen sensor threads into the outlet end of the catalytic converter. The post catalyst heated oxygen sensor input is used to detect catalytic converter deterioration and fine tune the air fuel ratio. As the converter deteriorates, the input from this sensor begins to match the pre-catalyst sensor input except for a slight time delay. By comparing the inputs from both of these sensors, the PCM calculates catalytic converter efficiency.

When the catalytic converter efficiency drops below emission standards, the PCM stores a diagnostic trouble code and illuminates the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).

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Supercharged V6 Tuning Tips:

(1) Use a V8 Throttle Body, Flometrics 48mm (50mm if running 9# boost), or Fastman modified throttle body (preferably with V8 cable as well for ease of installation)
(2) 3923 Spark Plugs
(3) A good ignition coil
(4) 180 Degree T'Stat
(5) Boost Bypass Valve (not the MAP/Boost Bypass Valve) REQUIRED for anything at 9# or above (also helps with 6# but not really required)
(6) Headers (recommended but not required unless you plan on higher boost levels - 9# really wakes up the V6 and they don't blow head gaskets like the 5.2/5.9's)
(7) Get rid of the Powerdyne Filter...it only flows 339CFM and the blower flows 850CFM @ 6#. The S&B Filters (or K&N) 6"x9" Cones fit perfectly but you will have to build a small bracket to hold the filter steady (this goes for the V8 folks as well...Powerdyne has been made aware of this it's with R&D right now.)

The SuperChips ICON allows you to custom program your timing curve in 400rpm increments (+/- 20 degrees at each increment starting at 1600rpm and up to 7000rpm). We're not running BTM at all on our V6 Truck...just the MSD Digital-6+ (Rev limiter set at 5500rpm) and the SuperChips box...and we just installed a custom built Billet Pulley from Worldwide Performance Parts (11#) for testing...no pinging with Super Unleaded and a bottle of ProBlend "Nitro Power". (We set the timing curve right at the detonation point, back it off .5 degrees across the board, and add a bottle of ProBlend. Runs VERY well and is real "peppy" across the board.

If you're running an IAT Adjuster, set it at 70-60 degrees but no colder on the S/C'd V6. The FMU compensates for the boost and the factory injectors will keep up with the added fuel from the FMU. At 9# or higher, you'll need to swap out to the FMS 24#...and they don't run rich at idle on the V6's at all.

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I want more boost out of my Powerdyne Supercharger:

(1) Replace the inefficient air filter that comes with the kit (It only flow 339CFM according to K&N - The Powerdyne puts out 850CFM @ 6# Boost)
(2) ATI, Paxton, K&N, and a few other companies make aftermarket air hats for the 5 1/8" opening of the Dodge Throttle Body.  These are all metal and can withstand much more than 10# boost...unlike the factory Dodge Air Hat which comes apart with 9# or more boost.
(3) If you're really wanting a lot of boost, grab a spare alternator pulley, cut a keyway groove on the inner hole (to match the grove depth on the Powerdyne Pulley), and install it.  The factory Alternator pulley makes 13# boost!!  WARNING - USE AT YOUR OWN RISK...You WILL void the warranty on the Supercharger and risk damaging your engine unless it's built for this type of boost level (Pistons, Crank, Rods, O-Rings Head/Block Surface).

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Upper Control Arm Bushing Problem:

It's a known fact that the passenger-side, upper control arm bushings deteriorate much quicker than the driver-side.  This is due to the offset of the engine in the engine bay.  The heat from the factory manifold causes the rubber to deteriorate prematurely...not because of headers as some dealerships claim.  (It happens to both factory manifolds and headers...even Mopar headers.)

 There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on this from 1997-2000 vehicles (Dakota/Durango).

Upper Control Arm Bushing TSB - MS Word
Upper Control Arm Bushing TSB - Adobe PDF

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TPS Modification:
(Applies to '92 -Current models)

Have you ever noticed that slight stumble right off idle when you mash the pedal to the floor?  Here's an easy fix for the sluggish response of the throttle (which is related to the TPS Sensor).

Here's a chart that shows the change in the Absolute TPS% that the PCM sees

TPS Voltage      Absolute TPS%

.44v

7.9%

.53v

10.1%

.685v

12.5%

.75v

13.7%

.82v

15.3%

Check your TPS voltage before doing this modification as none of the factory sensors are calibrated the same.  We've seen ranges from .3v-.7v...from the factory.  Connect a Digital Volt Meter to the middle terminal on the TPS sensor (with the harness connected and the Key-ON/Engine-OFF).  If it's close to .7v...leave it alone.

(1) Remove your TPS Sensor from the vehicle (Located on the drivers side of the throttle body - 3-Wire Connector)
(2) Put the TPS into a vice and drill the two brass inserts out of the casing with a 1/4" or 7/32" drill bit (drill from the back of the sensor...not the front).  You'll need to push on the drill as it will only spin the inserts...once they're heated up enough, they'll pop right out.
(3) Clean up the holes with either the drill or (preferred) a small round file.
(4) Reinstall the TPS Sensor on the throttle body.  You'll need two small washers on the screws as the holes are now bigger than the screw head.  Leave it slightly loose as you're going to have to set the initial Key ON/Engine OFF Voltage before starting the engine.
(5) Reconnect the TPS sensor harness and connect a Digital Volt Meter to the middle terminal on the TPS Sensor (you can poke through the weather-proof connector).
(6) Turn the ignition key ON but do NOT start the engine.
(7) Set the initial voltage (by turning it with your fingers) on the TPS at about .7 volts.  (Optimum range is from .7 - .75 volts)
(8) Tighten down the TPS screws and check the voltage one more time (yes...it can move slightly when tightening it down)
(9) Start the engine but do NOT step on the accelerator pedal...let the computer learn the new initial voltage setting.
(10) Turn the engine off and close the hood...drive away of you want...your throttle response should be much more precise now.

Here are some pictures for the various steps:

Factory TPS Sensor w/Brass Inserts
Factory TPS Sensor w/Brass Inserts
TPS Sensor in the vice (ready to drill)
TPS Sensor in the vice (ready to drill)
Modified TPS Sensor holes
Modified TPS Sensor Holes
Modified TPS Sensor reinstalled
TPS Sensor reinstalled with washers

Some have claimed that the TPS Sensor is adjustable on the actual throttle body without any modifications...this is completely false.  There is no room for adjustment unless you drill the inserts out.

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Denso-Iridium Spark Plugs

We spoke with the folks from Denso at at the SEMA show on the Iridium plugs and decided to purchase a set ($8.50/plug approximately).  We're using the recommended IQ16's in our '97  Dakota and, quite honestly, they don't perform any better than the Autolite 3923's (or 3922's) I normally run.  We'll check out the long-term fuel economy as well...but the initial results aren't too promising.

Update - 11/12/01: We've put about 100 miles on the plugs and they do seem to work better on the highway under light acceleration.  Please keep in mind that  we are testing them on a Supercharger/Nitroused/Intercooled V6 and the performance increases from the plugs may not be as noticeable as on a normally aspirated engine.  Our personal opinion, not a bad plug at all but don't see spending over $8.00 per plug.  We're still keeping an eye on the fuel economy so there will be one or two more updates on that parts of the test.

Update 02/20/02: We've run the truck with over 5000 miles on the Denso spark plugs and are switching back to the Autolites.  While the Denso Iridium plugs will outlast the Autolites, the Accel ignition, boost, and nitrous have taken a toll on the plugs.  For the average daily driver, they Iridium plugs are a good alternative/replacement (especially for Platinum plugs) but don't work any better than the Autolites in our specific case.

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What is a "S-Bolt" and how do I make one

Here's the actual measurements.  You'll need about 12" of 1/4"x20 rod from your local Home Depot.  (The reason for the 12" is in case you make a few mistakes...this leaves you extra material for practice.)

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Engine - Rattling/Lifter Type Noise

NO: 09-07-97
GROUP
: Engine
DATE
: June 27, 1997

SUBJECT:
Timing Chain Noise

MODELS: (Applies to '98+ models as well)
1990 - 1997 (AN) Dakota
1990 - 1997 (AB) Ram Van/Wagon
1990 - 1993 (AD) Ram Pickup/Ram Cab & Chassis/Ramcharger
1994 - 1997 (BR) Ram Truck

NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 3.9L ENGINE.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
A Rattling or lifter type noise coming from the front (chain case) area of the engine.

DIAGNOSIS:
Start the engine and bring it to operating temperature. Increase and decrease engine RPM slightly while listening to the front end of the engine for a rattling or lifter type noise. A stethoscope can be used to help pin point the noise location. If the noise is found coming from the timing chain case, perform the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:

1    83507095       Timing Chain and Sprocket Package
1    53021057       Gasket, Timing Chain Case
1    02129013       Gasket, Water Pump 1990 - 1991
1    04483757       Gasket, Water Pump 1992 - 1997
1    4897297AA      Seal, Front Case 1992 - 1997
1    03830109       Seal, Front Case 1990 - 1991
1    53021195AA     Tensioner, Timing Chain

REPAIR PROCEDURE:

This bulletin involves replacing the timing chain and sprockets and installing a timing chain tensioner.

1.

Following the appropriate service manual procedures, disassemble the front end of the engine to gain access to the timing chain and sprockets.

2.

Remove the chain and sprockets from the engine. Discard the parts
.

3.

Remove the thrust plate and chain oil tab (Figure 1). Discard the parts.

4.

Install the timing chain tensioner p/n 53021195AA in the position where the thrust plate and oil tab was installed (Figure 2). Torque the bolts to 24 Nm (210 in. lbs.).

5.

Install the new timing sprockets and chain p/n 083507095. Align the timing marks per the appropriate service manual procedure. Torque the camshaft bolt to 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.).

6.

Remove the lock pin that holds the tensioner plate for the chain. Discard the pin.

NOTE: WITH THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER INSTALLED, THE CAMSHAFT END PLAY WILL BE 0.051 - 0.330 MM (.002 TO .013 IN).

7.

Reinstall the remaining components per the appropriate service manual procedures.

POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty. 

TIME ALLOWANCE:

Labor Operation No:           09-10-05-92                                            2.3 Hrs.
Optional Equipment:           09-10-05-61 Power Steering                0.2 Hrs.
                                               09-10-05-63 Air Conditioning              0.4 Hrs.

 FAILURE CODE:       P8 - New Part

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Lonewolf Software: Automotive Wolf  v4.10

While we normally don't want to endorse or promote software for your vehicle, this is a utility that we've been using for quite some time now.  It has all the necessary features for tracking your vehicles maintenance schedule as well as quite a few others as well.

» Detailed Maintenance and Repair Records:
» Displays Maintenance / Inspection Reminders:
» Predicts when maintenance and inspections are due
» Configurable maintenance/inspection requirements
» Valuable Car Care Tips section
» Automotive Systems Reference
» Automotive diagnosis and troubleshooting!
» Cost Analysis (cost/mile, cost/year etc)
» Track fuel usage
» Increases the resale value of your vehicle!
» Quickly print out a "What's due" list
» Unlimited vehicles
» Network compatible
» Auto-upgrading
» Alarms, advice and More!

You can download the shareware version from the manufacturers website at: http://www.lonewolf-software.com/

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Information on all sorts of Mopar Engines (Past and Present)

AllPar Website

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How to relocate your IAT Sensor

  • The IAT Sensor is located on the #2 Intake Runner (3.9/5.2/5.9L) or under the Throttle Body, in the manifold (4.7L) - Big Brass looking sensor with two wires (Grayish connector)

  • Remove the IAT sensor from the manifold and plug the hole with a 1/4" NPT Pipe Plug (Home Depot)

  • Drill a 1/2" hole in the intake tube and thread the IAT sensor into the hole (use some silicone if you want...not required though) - You may have to extend the wires about 6-12" in some cases (use 16ga. wire)

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Looking for that "Pro Street" Look on your Dakota

For over 17 years now MAGNUMFORCE RACE CAR FABRICATION has been producing some of the finest and fastest cars around.    Although our roots began with Drag Racing and Pro Street cars the fact is that virtually every form of motor sports at some time or another has been represented here. Silver State, NASCAR, NHRA, SCCA, Indy cars, Drag bikes, custom Harleys, Off road, Exotic imports, Drag boats, Muscle Cars, Street Rods, Law Enforcement, and even military tanks (yes tanks!).

MAGNUMFORCE Race Car Fabrication

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Excessive Oil Consumption and/or Spark Knock (Belly Pan TSB)

This covers 1997+ 3.9/5.2/5.9L Magnum Engines

MS Word Format        Adobe PDF Format

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What's NEW for 2002 - Dodge Dakota

Dodge Dakota - All Models: Adobe PDF (1.93MB)

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Do those "Wonder Oils" really work?

While we try to refrain from degrading other products that we haven't tested...we've tested these and they do NOT work and have had claims filed against them from the FTC.

Dura-Lube: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/9905/duralub2.htm

ProLong: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/9909/prolong.htm

MotorUp: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/9904/motorup5.htm

Slick50: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/9607/slick.htm

Z-Max: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.htm

Lubricants that work in outer space may not work here on earth at all. Materials like PTFE are claimed to have the lowest coefficient of friction, but even the manufacturer of PTFE do not recommend it to be used in an internal combustion engine. Why? It cannot withstand the heat!  It is too fragile a compound and it decomposes and turns into a sticky plastic residue and a corrosive fluorine gas.  Are you sure you want this in your crankcase?

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Shocks - Lifted or Lowered Trucks

So you've lifted or lowered your truck...but does that mean that you need a different length shock? Not necessarily. You need a different length shock if the distance between the shock's upper and lower mounting points have changed drastically.

Say you've lowered your truck with 2 in. drop spindles in front and 3 in. lowering blocks in back. The distances between the shock mounting points have decreased, but are still within the limits of a stock length shock.

But what if you go with a 4 in. front/6 in. rear slam? The shock mounting points will be closer together and now you'll need shorter shocks. The same principle applies to trucks with suspension lift kits (Body lift kits don't affect shock mounting points).

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Cab Mount - Popping Noise on Steep Inclines

NO: 23-65-97 Rev. A
GROUP: Body
DATE: December 31, 1997
SUBJECT: Loud Popping Noise Is Heard When Vehicle Makes A Sharp Turn Onto A Steep Incline

1997-2001 (AN) Dakota
NOTE: This bulletin applies to 4X2 and 4X4 extended cab vehicles.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
A loud popping noise is heard coming from the rear of the cab as the vehicle is turned onto a steep incline such as a driveway approach.

DIAGNOSIS:
Drive the vehicle and turn onto a steep incline while listening for a popping noise coming from the rear of the cab. If a popping noise is heard, perform the following Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:
2     06501557   Bolt, Cab Isolator Mounting

REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin involves removing the rear cab isolators and removing 1/4 in. to 3/8 in. of material from the isolator sleeve.

  • Using a suitable hoist, raise the vehicle.
  • Remove the two rear cab isolator mounting bolts (Figure 1) and the rear under-cab isolators.
  • Using a suitable jack, raise the cab off the rear cab upper isolator high enough to be able to slide a block of wood between the cab cross member and the frame.
  • Place blocks of wood between the cab cross member and the frame and lower the cab onto the blocks of wood.
  • Remove both rear cab upper isolators.
  • Grind 1/4 in. to 3/8 in. off the metal sleeve of the rear cab upper isolator as shown in Figure 2. Perform this operation on both rear cab upper isolators.

  •  Instal